The following is instructions for making a Irish Lace Dutch Collar. It was originally published in Things Girls Like to Do (1917), near the end of World War I.
Irish crochet lace is one of the most durable of laces and is suitable to be worn for all occasions. It especially recommends itself for pick-up or porch work. It looks well and does not take an endless while to make, as almost every motif is made separately thus giving a variety. And although one may not have more than a few minutes to devote each day to the work, it is surprising how many articles can be completed with little effort and little time.
The materials necessary are a steel crochet hook, considerably finer than for ordinary crochet work, as the work must be very firm, even and close. Irish Crochet Thread, numbers 86 to 50 or D. M. C. cotton numbers 70 to 100 inclusive and number 10 for the padding cotton will be needed. All laces look better if pressed before making up, this is especially true of Irish Crochet.
Begin the rose with a small thick ring made by winding the padding cotton ten times around the end of the crochet needle. Cover this ring with single crochet, cutting off the end of the padding cotton when the ring is three quarters covered. *Chain 6, catch down into the ring; repeat from * 5 more times, dividing the spaces as evenly as possible so the last chain is caught down beside the first one.
Over the chain loop work * 1 single crochet 7 double crochet, 1 single crochet, repeat from * all around.
*Chain 7, catch down at back in the same stitch as that in which the chain loops of the preceding row was caught, repeat from * all around. Over chain loop * 1 single crochet, 9 double crochet, 1 double crochet. Repeat from * all around.
*Chain 8 catch down in back same place as before. Repeat from * all around.
*Over chain loops work repeat from * 1 single crochet, 11 doubles, 1 single crochet, this finishes the rose centre.
*Now begin the first row ·around the rose * 7 chain 3 picot, (catch back into third stitch) chain 7, picot, 3 chains, catch down in first petal in outer row, repeat from * 12 times more, spacing these picot loops evenly all around, catching the last one into the centre of the first.
*Next work one picot loop catching in into centre of loop of row below, then a loop of 6 chains, repeat from * caught into centre of next picot loop.
Turn and over this loop work 9 single crochet, turn, work 9 double crochet over the single crochet 3 chain, catch down into same stitch as the 6 chain loop was caught. Work 2 rows of picot loops, then repeat from * all around finishing the row in the corner of the first 9 double crochet ornament.
9th row — Work a row of plain picot loops.
10th row — Work a row of plain picot loops.
11th row — Another row of plain picot loops.
Five roses are required for the collar.
For the wheels.
Over a padding cotton ring, work single crochet.
Over a single strand of the padding cotton crochet into every single crochet, a single crochet, work 4 rows the same way only add a picot in every 4th single crochet in the last row. Now begin the first row around the wheel * chain 7, catch into the last single crochet of the wheel, chain 7, picot, chain 7, chain 3, skip 2 stitches of the wheel and catch down into the 3rd with a single crochet, repeat from * all around.
Next work 1 picot loop, catching it into the centre of loop in row below, then a * loop of 6 chain caught into centre of next picot loop. Turn, and over this loop work 9 single crochet, turn and work 9 double crochet over the single crochet, 3 chain stitch down into same stitch as the 6 chain loop was caught. Work 2 more picot loops, then repeat from * all around finishing the row in the centre of the first ornament.
Work a row of plain picot loop. Another row of plain picot loops. Make four wheels for the collar.
Sew the roses and wheels firmly on the cambric pattern (the size and style having been cut out of the cambric).
Placing them so as to leave room for a single row of picot loops to be worked between to join them, crochet a chain of chain stitches and baste them upon the edge of the cambric pattern. Fill the work out to the desired shape with the picot loops, which should contain the same number of chain stitches as the loops in the roses and wheels, 3 chain, 1 double crochet, 3 chain, work a row all around collar, then begin the border or edge. Work around the inner edge and fronts of collar 4 single crochet into each loop, then around the lower edge * 4 single crochet in the first space, 4 single crochet in the second space, 2 single crochet in the third space; chain 6 down at the beginning of second space. Over the loops thus formed make 3 single crochet, picot, 7 single crochet, 2 single crochet into same (third) space, 4 single crochet into next space. Turn, 6 chain catch down into next to the last loop, turn, 5 single crochet over the loop, chain 6, turn, and catch down into centre of first loop. Turn, 5 single crochet, picot, 5 single crochet over this last loop, 2 single crochet into the next loop, picot, 3 single crochet, repeat from * all around edge. Take the collar up from the cambric and press upon the wrong side over a blanket or heavy flannel.
More patterns from Things Girls Like to Do (1917):